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In Mary DeForest Denny’s 1921 diary, she wrote of a journey to France with her good friend, artist Clara Greenleaf Perry. It was a memorable and historical trip filled with once in a life time experiences. Here in part III, our final installment, Mary has returned to the Chateau Lafayette for one last visit. Her precious time spent at the Chateau with Clara and the dear friends she has met while on her journey, will stay in her heart forever. Before boarding the ship to head back home to the states, Mary takes a short, but rather extensive, trip through the Netherlands with artist friend, Elizabeth Saltonstall. Last but not least, and perhaps the most memorable part of this entire diary for me, was what I found at the end, pasted on the back pages of Mary’s diary, it’s titled, “Coming Through”……
“Monday, July 25th, Quimperle’ to Paris. Rain clearing. Hot. Left Quimperle’ ____ (can’t quite make out the time) train for Paris. Dejeuner, lemonade and dinner on train. Restaurant car. Dapper little man in white duck trousers who smacked his lips for the waiter! Played piquet and wrote. P.M. Very Hot. Arrived Paris Quai d’ Orsay 8-15. To Metropolitan in my own little apartment vacated that day. Ethel and Jeannie here from Cabourg. Spent eve (evening)in our rooms. Found batch of letters that had been here for 3 weeks.”
“Tuesday, July 26th, Fair. Very very hot. Elizabeth’s Birthday, 21st (proof that this was the famous Massachusetts painter Elizabeth Saltonstall). She out early in best clothes to see Mrs. Emerson etc. Ethel and Jeannie sat with me and we three lunched at the Chinese Umbrella. Bank. Watch to Tiffany’s. Tea in our room with Birthday cake. Jane ordered at Colombierchocolate with E’s name and date. Candles and holder Bessie sent over by me. Wrote. Dined at Pre Catalin, champagne. Woman at next table with two men smoked cigar and danced very well. Some love making in taxis along the Champs Elysee.” (LOVE THIS)
This is Elizabeth Saltonstall in her later years, around the 1980’s. She was just 21 years old when traveling with Mary in 1921. And how beautiful are her two paintings here.
“Wednesday, July 27th, Fair, very hot. Ethel sat and talked with me. Wrote. All lunched at Colombier. Ethel and J. back to Cabourg at one. Errands. E. and I teaed (had tea) with Mrs. Peabody at her cousin Mrs. __________ (she leaves it blank) apartment. Mrs. Chase and Margaret there. Had not found St. Jean du Doigt’s (Saint-Jean-du-Doigt) satisfactory so all returned to Paris. Chase’s, E. and I dined at Ledoyen on the Champs Elysee. Chase’s came back and sat with us. Wrote.”
“Thursday, July 28th, Ther. 101. Fearful wind in P.M. and sand storm. Out early. Left Kodak to be mended. Printemp’s and lunched there. Gallerie. Sent telegram to Mme Le Verrier saying impossible to go to Chavaniac till Monday. Back to Hotel 3-30 to be met at door by Philip and K. Saltonstall who had just flown across the channel. They came up to our rooms and surprised Elizabeth. Lemonade in room. Dined at Ledoyen with Philip, K. and E.”
“Friday, July 29th, Fair, cooler after a night of high wind. Wrote and errands. Emily back from tours. Called for me and we lunched at Depeuch’s. She had lost her pearl pin, found it later at Hollurguen (?). Rue Tilsitt to have passport extended. Prefet de police for carte d’ identite. Had not paid 5 fr. tax at 11 Rue Bailiff so had to go there and back to Prefet in P.M. First went back to Hôtel de L’Univers with Emily. Called for my books behind Pantheon. Legue Notiaral 35 Rue Vaneau for dogs. Tea at Colombier with Emily. E. and I dined hotel and went to the Comedie Francaise. Saw Le Luthier de Cremone and Le Barbier De Seville. Both excellent. Genge (George?) Paine behind us and family!!!”
“Saturday July 30th, Cool, growing warmer. Wrote. Bank. Tiffany. Mirortel (?) ordered glasses. Cooks. Rue St. Lazare for tickets to Paulhaguet, waited ¾ hr. Met Emily Metropolitan and we lunched at Colombier. I had hair washed at Aristick Depeutot (?) 10 Rue Danon 20 frs. Printemps and Gallerie and met Emily and Miss Tapley for tea at Chiboust. E. and I dined at Depeuch 6 fr. Place and went to the Comédie-Française. Saw Un Caprice and L’Ami Fritz, later a bit dull. Obnoxious noisy English, 3 behind us.”
“Sunday July 31st, Fair, hot again. Packed. Washed and ironed. Lunched with Philip and K. and Elizabeth at Fouquet’s on the Champs Elysee and with them by motor to St. Geremain. Ugly hot ride. Chateau hideous inside and out. Museum of fossils. Terrace fine view from there, band playing. Had cold drinks at the Pavilion Henry IV. Terrible road back vis the Bois. Mme Avril called. E. and I dined with Chase’s and Mrs. Peabody at the ? Fish rue Le Boissy d’Anglas. Good dinner for 10 francs. Met _____ at the Chase’s room at the Crillon like any N.Y. hotel.”
“Monday, August 1st, Fair, very hot. Left Paris on 7-40 train. Gare de Lyon (train station) for Paulhaguet. Great crowds at the station and almost no porters. People manning their own trucks. I tried but unsuccessfully as far as steering was concerned. Finally got a porter who when he found he had to put the pieces on the train took them off and left me stranded again. Finally found one who installed me but into the wrong carriage, so changed me over at Nevers, very long train. My car at every end so impossible to see names of stations and no one on train or platform called them out. Wrote till dejeuner and after and read. Little old couple in same compartment from Clermont Ferrand on, he with Asthma. I nearly alighted at station too soon. Arrived Paulhaguet 8 P.M. Clara and Mme Le Verrier to meet me in Cadillac. Both maids Rosalie and Charlotte on train to Chavaniac. Lived at Pavilion at La Niche. Mons Le Verrier also there.”
“Tuesday, August 2nd, Fair, hot. Clara and I breakfasted and left in Ford with Pierre and the paper hanger Cola at 6 A.M. for Jax. Scrubbed and shuttled and washed house while Clara painted salon and Le Verrier apartment and painter painted Clara’s room and my little one. Got luncheon, landlady cooked our meat and her sister, a religieuse who has been for 37 years (back on her first visit in 25) in a convent in Tampa Florida, brought her coffee in a little pot, with two cups. 4 boys from the school came in P.M. and kept them busy cleaning. Clara and I and 2 boys left Jax and walked down mountain without path to Chavaniac ¾ hr. Dined 8-30. Terribly hot.”
“Wednesday, August 3rd, Fair, cooler. Left Chavaniac 10 in Camion (truck). Clara, Mme Le Verrier and the 2 maids and Mons Mazoyer. All had dejeuner together in salon at Jax as soon as arrived. Then worked cleaning etc. Clara, Mme Le V. and I walked down lovely path to Chavaniac at 7. Wrote. Left maids at Jax.”
“Thursday August 4th, To Langeac in Camion (truck) with Mme Wagner and bought Chintz’s (is this the piece of fabric found in the diary??) for salon arm chairs at Jax, read and fix terrace chairs, tumblers, red paint etc. After dejeuner wrote and packed. Left at 4-30 bag and baggage, household articles of every description and food in Cadillac for Jax to take up our abode there. Mme Le V. in front with Riene and charcoal etc. Mrs. Le V. Clara and I behind. On arrival Clara let fall on my foot her bundle ___. Supper and stencils and saw sunset. C. and I slept in her room.”
“Friday, August 5th, Jax. Fair, cooler. Worked over house all day cleaning and painting in Clara’s room. Boys came to help. Eve (evening) walked and Clara and I sat out on the mountain side until 10 P.M. New moon.”
“Saturday, August 6th, Fair. Worked all day. Painted my little room and cleaned it and unpacked late that night for first time since leaving Paris. Mons Mazoyer came in P.M. Eve (evening)sat out late. Marvelous sun set. Slept in my room.”
“Sunday, August 7th, Clarence’s birthday. No one worked except to cover chairs in P.M. I read letters from home under the pine trees and wrote there. P.M. helped with chairs and wrote. Eve (evening) strolled.”
“Monday, August 8th, Fair, hot. Off to hillside with Clara while she painted the village with grain field in foreground and men at work. I wrote and read. P.M. 4 small boys arrived for work. I gave veranda chairs first coat of crushed strawberry color. Eve(evening), Clara and I walked towards Chastel Neuelle(Chastenuel) and up on Mt. and lost path in dark.”
“Tuesday August 9th, Fair. Hot. _______ for stamps. Alone to Chastel Neuelle(Chastenuel) and sketched fountain. Clara finished sketch of yesterday. After de’jeuner Mons Le Verrier gave us a lecture on French literature. Clara and I to Chatel Vernelle (Chastenuel) and sketched church. Had tea there from tea basket. Peasants all so interested. The women forgot to take the food to the men in the fields and the children forgot to fetch home the corn so there was a great scolding. Left there at 8 P.M. Marvelous eve (evening), had supper C. and I after our return 8-30. Others out walking.”
“Wednesday August 10th, Hot, terrible wind. Out with Clara while she painted Mts. and pine woods. I wrote and read, studied French. P.M. La ____ arrived and interrupted French lecture. Wrote, walked. Eve (evening) clouds and storm in the distance. Made a thrilling sky. We all watched sky from the mountainside. Night thunder, showery. My window would not shut, broke window pane and cut arm trying to close window.”
“Thursday, August 11th, Cooler. Fair. Chastel Neuelle (Chastenuel) alone for eggs. Got 2 dozen from Mme Dumas who liked hearing Clara and Mme Paugh Tuesday on our way home. Tried to finish sketch of fountain. P.M. Mons Le Verrier read aloud from O. Henry prize stories. Excellent. Others walked to Chastel Neuelle. I went on same road later and sketched grain field, Mts. and others joined me on way home and we had tea from the tea basket. Clara sketched path and bank of thistles in 12 hr. Eve (evening)Mons Le Verrier read The Camel’s Back, another of the prize stories, pompous and dull.”
“Friday, August 12th, Jax – Le Puy. Fair, cool, slight showers. Clara and I left 9-30 and walked to Fix (?) statue through Chastel Neuelle and the most wonderful wood of fir trees. Took us one hour. Took 11-20 train to Le Puy arriving there about 12-10. Hotel Terminus for lunch and bought Petit Beurre (a classic French butter cookie), fruit, egg cups, books, etc. Climbed to St. Michel and visited the Chapel and walked about the city. Took 4.05 train back to Fix where Mme and Mons Le Verrier met us to carry our supplies. Eve (evening) Mons Le V. read aloud.”
“Saturday, August 13th, Cold, cloudy. P.M. Showers. Painted garden chairs red. After de’jeuner Mons Le Verrier gave us French literature lecture on the founding of the Academie Francaise etc. Painted chairs. Others walked down to Chavaniac Mme Le V. to stay a few days. Mr. Moffat, head of the La Fayette Comm. arrives tomorrow. I had tea in my room brought by Rosalie, read, cleaned and wrote. Started a fire in salon.”
“Sunday, August 14th, Fair, cool. Walked alone. Read and wrote. P.M. Clara, Mons Le V. and I walked through woods and ravines and along wood paths to Varennes, (Varennes-Saint-Honorat) little village directly opposite on side of Mt. Fascinating church tower and colored tiles. Traces of old Chateau and old walls. Well built washing place. Charming old cemetery. Clara must make three sketches here. Walked back via road and Chastel Neuelle about 7-8 miles in all. Eve (evening) read aloud.”
“Monday, August 15th, Cloudy, cool, showers. Holiday, the Assumption of the Virgin. Read and wrote and painted chairs and table (?). P.M. Literature lecture. Clara, Mons Le V. and I walked through pines and along road way to left, other side of the village, beautiful views. Called on one landlady and two daughters, eat in a row of chairs against the wall in a yellow _____ smoke dismal one windowed forlorn room but were each given a glass of delicious Chartreuse from a large bottle with much touching of glasses. Tea at home. Eve (evening)read aloud. Mons Le V. scolded by St. George telephone operator for trying to use the telephone on a holiday!!”
“Tuesday, August 16th, Cool and fair, slight shower. Put out chintz for cushions (* AGAIN, I BELIEVE THIS IS THE MATERIAL THAT WAS FOUND BETWEEN THE PAGES OF THIS DIARY. IT’S ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL) read and wrote. Clara painted church and village from near home. Literature lecture. Sketched church and village. Had tea at home and a walk up to the top of the mountain near me. Sat a long time on slope of Mt. and bathed in the sun and Mons Le V. defined Happiness, most interesting! Eve (evening) he talked to me about the church, the priests, the aristocracy (The Countess de Rohan and how she treated her son (?) as against her treatment of the priest who has her completely under her thumb.) Told instance of priests intrigues in his own family and at Chavaniac. All intensely interesting and almost unbelievable!”
“Wednesday, August 17th, Jax – Chavaniac. Cloudy, windy, showers. Telephone message came by the Jax before we were dressed wanting us to lunch at Chavaniac. Clara, Mons Le V. and I left here at 11 and walked down the Mt. Lunched at school, sat. Mr. Moffat, Scotch, Mrs. Kelley, Irish, and the French doctor of the Preventorium. Mme Le V., Mr. Kelly flat headed and dull. Clara, the Haines English business manager. Mme Simon hated German – Jewess. French woman Mme Bunard, self made, large hearted and clever. French business manager from Paulhaguet. Myself and Mr. Moffat latter jolly, much in N.Y. and rich. Showed all the Niche and while rest went by motor to Le Puy for P.M. we walked home in rain, up Mt. Called on Tabac lady and showed Clara’s picture of church to all the family. Tea at home. Eve (evening) read. Had letter this A.M. from Ethel enclosing one to her from _____ and Rosamond and wrote.”
“Thursday, August 18th, Jax. Rain all day. Clara and I had breakfast in my room. Wrote and read and all sat over the fire. P.M. Lesson on the Philosopher and Descarte and talk about detecting emplacements of cannon by sound with geometrical illustration. P.M. Wrote and read and eve (evening) the same.”
“Friday, August 19th, Rain in shower all day. Big batch of letters from home. Wrote. Clara walked down to Chavaniac alone. Mons Le V. and I had dejeuner alone. A call from La Soem (?) the two nieces. Mons L. V. regaled them with tales of traveling in a train de Luxe in the U.S.A. Had tea and at 4-30 he and I started to meet Clara and Mme Le V. but encountered them by telephone office. Returned with them and then all took a walk to top of Mt. Eve (evening)read aloud. Finished Mrs. Warren’s Profession.
“Saturday, August 20th, Jax. Sun and showery. Wrote. With Clara to Mt. She painted Lone pine tree and Mts. I sketched. I started home ahead of Clara to say she would be late to lunch but the path trying to take a short cut I arrived home not ¾ hr. late but head of Clara. P.M. Had lesson on Pascal. Mme Le Verrier read aloud to Clara and me her article just published in La Grande Revue, written 6 years ago on Elizabeth Cady Stanton. Were to have all called on the Gue’ but a telegram came for Mons Le V. fro L’ Europe Nouvelle asking for an article for Tuesday so he had to write. (L’ Europe Nouvelle is a magazine of French and international politics.) Two boys from the school arrived with bicycle from Mme Mazoyer for me to ride and with a large tarte from Mme Le V. Wrote. Eve (evening)talked on Feeing, prices and the interest of the villagers during the winter (?)in one (?) instruments!”
“Sunday, August 21st, Jax. Showers. Wrote. Read. P.M. Clara and I tried bicycles by riding to Villeneuve and back. Village beyond Chastel Neuelle. Brilliant sunset and stars.”
“Monday, August 22nd, Fair. Hard rain. Clara and I on bicycles to Varennes. Clara began to paint church when clouds gathered. Eat lunch under lea of cemetery and it began to rain and pour. Clara sat under trees and painted till clouds obscured ____ the church. Left Clara paint box and rode and walked home. Soaked!!!! Read and sewed. Clara’s birthday.”
“Tuesday August 23rd, Fair and slight showers. Clara and I poked about village with camera took photo of child and dog opposite and called outside in landlady and the sister. Talked with group of lace maker sitting in the sun with Chauferettes (heaters) at their feet. They invited us to come tonight to the new clean house to see how they make their lace in the winter evenings by the light of water bottles. Told us that in the days before the war they had such good times with singing and dancing and telling of tales. P.M. Lecture, very difficult on Pascal and the Pensees and Clara to Chastel Neuelle to finish fountain. I with Mons and Mme Le V. to call on the Cuse and walked to L’Obera (?) and back for tea at home. Eve (evening)Clara and I as invited went to house at 8-30 in lower village where came four women hanging round bottles on pasteboard cases. The bottles were put on a round table in a circle about a small low lamp and light was reflected from bottles into their cushions and they made lace. There were gathered about the table three young girls, one very pretty, one with crochet, one hostess single woman who lived alone with her cat and dog, fine faced older women like Whistler’s mother and old Franz Hale grandmother sat in window over the potage. Young boy, two young girls, one Henrietta of 10 who with her dog Furette, guards the goats and cows on the hillside every morning. Tall angular woman who was too shy to sing the old songs and an occasional dropper in were the party. The young girls sang. Our hostess said her father used to tell them tales of the war of 1870. Clara made a charcoal sketch of group around the table and sang Negro song of Rose. I told of Rose Saltonstall reciting at the front before the 2,000 Negro boys and the Negros prayer for her. Also told of Nebo (?) and his being stolen and the custom of birthday cakes and candles and wishing on same. Was asked if I had to give reward for Nebo. ______ haters (? possible mean “Hat-ers”) told them all she had read but advertisements in the paper also haters asked me particularly what prayer the Negro made to the white lady. Most interesting evening.”
(Rose Parsons, born Rose Saltonstall Peabody and sometimes known as Rose Peabody Parsons (1891–1985) was an American woman associated with the formation and management of a number of US women’s organizations including the National Council of Women of the United States, the 1947-onwards Women United for United Nations and the 1952-onwards Committee of Correspondence, and the International Council of Women.)
“Wednesday, August 24th, Jax. Cold rainy. Wrote. Bed till noon. P.M. Lecture on Coruelle (?) interrupted by call from the sester (?).”
“Thursday, August 25th, Rain all day. Big batch of letters! Read them and Pascal. P.M. Wrote. Clara painted portrait of Monsieur Le Verrier. The Cure called. Told us Jax divided into three parts. Boulogne, the lower, L’Eglise and _______ (she leaves it blank). Said 25 men from here killed during the war. He was clean shaven and in clean habit. Went through the war without smoking. Eve (evening) played Canfield with Mme Le V.”
“Friday, August 26th, Fog, shower but clear. Wrote. P.M. All walked to Varennes by road. Clara finished picture of church begun Monday. The others home by the road Clara and I by the path. There started on our way by man and woman and child from Paris. Pickett basket of mushrooms. Eve (evening) Canfield.”
“Saturday, August 27th, Fair, warmer. Clara and I made calls on our friend who gave us the party, one hostess, Grandma Franz Hels, etc. and took photos and Clara made an excellent pencil sketch of the old woman. P.M. Decided at lunch to all go to Chavaniac tomorrow so packed and all took long walk over and round the mountain. Eve (evening) sat over fire. Packed.”
Again, these two paintings aboe were original painted in color and done by Clara Greenleaf Perry. They are listed as “Chavaniac – Lafayette Pastel.” Not sure as to the date but wanted to include them.
“Sunday, August 28th, Fair. Warm. Packed. Washed hair. Took photos. P.M. Mons and Mme Le Verrier, Clara and I left Jax on foot down the mountain to Chavaniac. Mons Le V. with dress suit case of papers tied to his back. Hot walk. Had tea then Clara and Mons Le V. returned to Jax in the Ford, Henrietta, and brought down my luggage, the maids to come down tomorrow. Sat at La Niche. Went on the Preventorium with Mme Le V. and the doctor. 100 children there now. 85 boys, in cotton drawers and backs bare. They go out doors this way in winter in the sun and snow. Mme Simon at Pension. I had Mme L. V.’s room.”
(Mary is now on her way back to Paris, leaving the Chateau for the last time, at least on this trip in 1921. Did she ever go back?? Thought I’d leave you with some incredible photos of the Chateau’s Preventorium and the children. All of these photos came from the Chateau Lafayettes Museum website.)
https://www.chateau-lafayette.com/
“Monday, August 29th, Chavaniac – Paris. Fair. Left Chavaniac in “Henrietta” driven by Clara, Mons and Madame coming to Paulhaguet too and putting me on the 10-19 train for Paris. Dejeuner at Clermont Ferrand where train waited 1 hr. Arrived Paris, Gare de Lyon 40 minutes Pate, waited on platform for porter 15 minutes, outside 20 minutes for taxi. Arrived hotel at 12, no room for me except up the street. Refused to go there so telephoned upstairs to Lina’s room, waked her and shared her single bed with her. Albert and Gledy’s Bigelow met on arriving, a new secretary came in her pajamas to Lina’s room to see what he could do for me. I suggested a mattress on the floor. He said he would gladly contribute his own but could get me no clean sheets. 12-30 Elizabeth Saltonstall knocked and made a long call. Lina and I talked till 2-45 A.M.
Tuesday, August 30th, Ethel Dupee came with Arthur and Jeanne. Called at 8 A.M. Got trunks and moved to room of my own. Ten thirty out with E. to the Dutch consul for visa to Holland. Took ten minutes only. Rue du Bac No. 14 for 1 block of paper to be marked. Hotel to see Dupee children just leaving for Cabnug (?). Lunched with Ethel and Jeanne. Unpacked. Tea with Lina and Miss Du Vernay in Tuileries Gardens, enchanting. Dined with Arthur, Ethel and Jeannie at Ledoyen, Champs Elysee. Before dinner Arthur, Ethel and I all in my room, the valet moved all Elizabeth’s belongings, unpacked, and settled them. Said about her _______ dress, “Tres Jolie.” (Meaning “very pretty”). We are rooming together No. 76. Good home.”
“Wednesday, August 31st, Paris. Fair. Errands, Printemps and Gallerie. Met Chase’s and Elizabeth at Hotel Vouillemont where _____ are staying. Lunched together at the restaurant des Alpes 10 Rue Marche’ St. Honore, tray excellent food. Some of the Am. Legion men there. Hotel and for an hour E. read me her letters from home. Tea with Lina and the Chase’s 1st going to the Bank for Dutch and Belgian money and to U.S.S. office. About ticket Panhandle (?) State, changed to Centennial State. Teaed Tuileries Garden. Albert, Gladys Bigelow and the children joined us. Lina, Gladys, Elizabeth and I dined at des Alpes going on except E. to the Comedie Francaise. Saw 2 plays, Le Filbustier and Le Jen d A____ at de Harard (Harvard?). Good but mild. Dupee’s to England at 11 A.M.”
(I beleive when she says, “Lunched together at the restaurant des Alpes” it’s this hotel that has a resturant on the first floor)
“Thursday, September 1st, Paris. Fair, Warm. 70 Chartres with Lina and Miss DV. 9- train from Gare Montparnasse going there by Nord Sud. Arrives Chartres 9-30. Cathedral, outside and in. Talked with verger (official) who knew the Adams and Mr. Thorn, writes books and Chatel and has photographed all the glass and statues and imparts the spirit of the Cathedral. Climbed to tower and over the roof. Saw bell ringing at noon. Walked round the Cathedral on the Triforium. Lunched restaurant Valletta opp Cathedral. I alone to station and through town. Rejoined other inside Cathedral. Bought postals and took 4-23 train, very crowded, late, back to Paris. Got seat but not the others. Dined with Lina and Miss D.V. at restaurant des Alpes. Chase’s there having disagreeable time with drunk Am. Legion man so they moved to own table. Two Legion men with 2 “Chippy’s” met boy from their home town in Montana, amusing situation. Marvelous day! Chartres Cathedral one of the wonders of the world stands alone in piety and color. Radiates light. Sat with Philip Saltonstall at hotel and then the Bigelow’s. Lina to my room till 12-30. Elizabeth out in a party home 1-30.”
“Friday, September 2nd, Paris. Fair, warm. Were to have gone to Belgium today but both tired, Elizabeth and I, so decided to wait till Saturday. Stayed in bed till 12-30. Wrote and sewed. E. and I lunched Colombier, just there by accident the Chase’s. All went to Louvre to Comando (?) Collection, small and open only certain days. Some good Maret’s, Monet’s, Degas, etc. Hotel and packed. Tea Tuileries Gardens with Lina and Miss D. V. E. and I dined at Cafe de Paris with Phillip and K. Saltonstall and to the Opera Comique. Heard Cavalleria and Tosca.”
“Saturday, September 3rd, Paris – Bruges. Fair, cool, cold. Left Paris Gau de Nord 8-10 train for Brussels. E’s hat box got in taxi by mistake so she had to take it back to Hotel. In carriage with attractive French woman who loved flowers and had funny paper parcel. Crossed frontier (?) at 12 at Feique. After passing through Compiegne and St. Quentin where we saw devastation and trees destroyed. Dejeuner on train. Arrived Brussels 1-45. Gare du Midi. Taxi across city to Gare du Nord and the 2-36 train to Bruges arriving 4-30. Porter carried bags to Hotel de Fleudie, good room with Elizabeth. Hotel kept by English. Tea in garden and walked about the city, perfectly enchanting. The candle old houses, etc. Sat for Notre Dame and watched the people who seemed very sweet and devout during the service. Darling little boy passed through the church. People all look serious and as if they had suffered. Women in Victorian bonnets!!! So different from Paris. Eve (evening)read.”
“Sunday, September 4th, Bruges. Fair Cool. To Notre Dame for some of the service, crowded. Saw pictures. Virgin Dolorosa. Virgin and child of Michel Angelo not appealing and tombs of Charles the Bold and his daughter Mary, latter very charming. Music, ______ (she’s erased something), 3 little sections, with 3 Van Eyck pictures. Good. 2 picture portraits and __ David. Triptych and a Van ___vost family. I liked especially. Messee ____________ (she has left this blank) just interesting for the house and a lesson in “pharmacie.” Lunched hotel. Out at tyhree to Museum in the St. John’s Hospital just some beautiful Memling’s. Tea in little shop where woman told of occupation by Germans, illness of queen and admiring E.’s sweater and teeth. Took boat and went though the canal for an hour, enchanting. Eve (evening) wrote.” (Forgive all the blank spots, some by Mary and some by me. Again her writing is tough especially when she’s writing French.)
“Monday, September 5th, Fair, warm. Took train to Ghent and had two hours there. Landed at station outside called St. Pieters so took horse cart and saw old Chateau, thought it was old Cathedral! Then to Cathedral, earnest guide showed us the Hubert and Jean Van Eyck triptych, very wonderful. Guide eager to speak English. Had garte (?) in Patisserie shop and arrived Bruges 12-20. Lunched and left immediately after, by tram. I walk to canal beyond dam where we overtook “Arey” and his wife hurrying for the boats which left 2-15. Interesting trip down the canal on little steamer. This was all an important strategic place for the Germans. They kept their submarines there. Passed German steamer and submarine shelters. Mrs. “Arey said, “I had me photograph taken on a gun.” About 1 ½ hr on steamer, arrived Zeebrugge, walked across a hot plain of sand to mole and out to end of mole 45 min. with unbelievable that the Vindictive (British warship during WWI) could have made the mole and the __ on the landing, the height of the wall 30 ft. Saw where Eng. submarines blew up the mole, all thoroughly interesting. Had tea at end, tasted of loam (?). Took motor limousines back to other end of mole, red haired attractive English woman with older French speaking man with us. Only caught steamer which had left the dock by crawling across canal boat and boarding from that. The Daffodil little tug that pushed the Vindictive in up to the mole had been a little ferry boat from Liverpool across the Mercy. Eve (evening)painted (?) hill and packed.” (On the opposite side of this page is a photo of a hand drawn map from 1918 about this place, the mole and the Vindictive.)
“Tuesday, Septemember 6th, Bruges, Antwerp, The Hague. Fair, warm. Left Bruges 7-14 train for Antwerp. Got a wrong train so had to change in Brussels otherwise would have not gone through Brussels, lost about 1 hr. Arrived Antwerp 10-30. Had Goutes (drops) near the station. To Cathedral to see the Ruben’s Descent from the Cross and others, only care for the first. Lunched at Blumes restaurant and to Museum. Little of interest there. Took-20 train arriving the Hague at about 7-50, Hotel Paulez Korte Voorhout. Good situation. Expensive food. Had small double room on ____ bath!”
(Hotel Paulez, which used to stand along Korte Voorhout in The Hague. Bombed during WWII, the site is now occupied by a US Embassy building.)
“Wednesday, September 7th, Fair, warm. To Musee Muithaus. (I think she might mean Mauritshuis which is a museum in The Hague). Pictures too marvelous. 2 Holbein, the Delft, Vermeer etc. etc. P.M. Gallery. Took tram to Scheveningen and sat on beach, watching the children the people carried out to the big flat bottomed sail boats. One older ______ looking captain not so successful in obtaining passengers. Photo man and back of broad woman facing the sad sea waves. Very funny! Bath chairs covered the beach like mushrooms and one end roped off for bathing with horse drawn bathing machines. Tea at restaurant, above beach home by ______. Walked alone, saw many good looking horses, private carriages and lively. Bicycles like auto and regulated by traffic rules like the motors. Eve (evening) wrote. Curious Jap man in hall with beard and noisy Eng. party arrived by motor.”
(Sally here: I try so hard NOT to use AI, and I’m going to continue in that thought BUT when I went to look up the Scheveningen Beach that she talks about going to in the above entry, I found the most incredible 20 minute video on line that has been AI enhanced as far as the color. I was astounded. It really took me back in time. The movie itself is original from the 1920’s, but the creator said it’s been “AI enhanced and colorized.” If you watch it here, when you get to minute 3:40 or so, you’ll see the incredible beach sceen with all the “pods” to protect the bathers from the sun.)
https://www.ricksfilmrestoration.com/SchevEN1.htm
“Thursday, September 8th, Fair. Warm. Bank and _____ Aus Music. Train to Rotterdam about 11-30. Missed electric train. Lunched in arcade. Manager talkative and interested. Looked up steamers to Delft. Boijmans Museum. Unexpectedlyinteresting. Some excellent pictures in very old grand private house. Excellent light. Most respectable ____ guards, panel in wall. Took steamer about 4 to Delft, 1 ¾ hours. Got real local (?) coloring peasant woman in cape and with basket. All on their knees under bridges. Very many canal boats views of distant towns, beautiful. The holders filled with black and white cattle. Canal above the level of the banks, bicycles on top of the dykes, all strange and interesting and busy underworlds. Tea at landing at Delft. Walked about streets to the Cathedral square, bought two silver boxes in same store Irene and I did 22 years ago! Stood on bridge over little canal and watched boys throw bricks from street. Saw a Rotterdam horse car drawn by one horse into hole in wall of canal. Old gentle man in silk hat and Prince Albert coat came along and shook his head over such destruction of Delft. Smiled and he and I talked it over without understanding the other languages only the spirit. The boys played tag with the same zest as they first had and I scolded them for being Bre Buks (?) and rewarded them with pimpled (?_) chocolates. Delft the most old fashioned and fascinating to me of all the places in Holland. Back to the Hague by slow train arriving about 8. Eve (evening) telephoned Monsieur Le Verrier who is visiting Mme Days. Awning at hotel, caught on fire from cigarette!
“Friday, September 9th, Monsieur Le Verrier called 10-11. E. and I to Mesdag Music. Some wonderful Dutch Barbizon. Maris, Israels, Mesdag’s, etc. Lunch 12 and took 1-20 train about ¾ hr. to Haarlem. Train to Franz Hals Museum. Pictures not very interesting except one by F. Hals of group of Dutch women but old Hotel de Ville respected and very attractive, built around a garden full of frx (?). Took taxi through the Borch (?) and among the residential part. Sleepy, peaceful city. Took 4 something train and were late getting to Amsterdam. Stayed Hotel L’ Europe, room attractive. Canals, a busy wait. More German appearing here. Excellent food. Eve (evening) wrote.”
“Saturday, September 10th, Amsterdam. Cool and showery. Rycke Museum (Rijksmuseum). The Terbonig’s (?), Vermeer’s, Jan Steen and Pieter de Hooch’s!!!!. Lunch at Hotel and Museum again. Train to Zoological gardens, poor tea in room, duty. Monkey home! Eve (evening)wrote, bed early. E.’s Dutch friend Margarette Woe ________(she leaves it blank as if there is more to her last name) called after I went upstairs.”
“Sunday, September 11th, Fair, Cool, Showers. Took steamer behind R.R. station at 10 A.M. Stopped Broek in Waterland to see model dairy. Had lunch on board at 12. Stopped and walked through Monnickendam, just clean town. Bought small green teapot. Across Zuiderzee (Southern Sea) to Island of Maarken. Costumes all odd and interesting but all so stilted and done for tourists at their places, cannot feel the same charm as of Delft. Back across Zuiderzee to Volendam. Fishing boats packed solidly. Costumes of men, long baggy trousers and square fur hats. Women and girls in lace cape and no banged hair like Maarha (?). Miss Margarette and her brother met us at Volendam unexpectedly to us, in motor so we left steamer and motored back to Amsterdam through the towns, we stopped at in the A.M. Went to their house and had tea, very large, modern and comfortable. A little like Brooklyn opp park. Margarette very like Evelyn Griswold, brother at college by Utrecht. Eve (evening) wrote.”
“Monday, September 12th & 13th, Cool. Showers. Miss W. _______ (she leaves it blank) called for us in limousine and took us to the bank, silver shop. Little settlement built round church like Beguinage in Bruges. So quiet but leading off the busiest commercial street. Miss W. lunched with us. P.M. E. and I to Museum. Tea at hotel and left 6-15 train for Paris. Dined on train. Very up and coming little Dutch humorous man who was in business in London talked to us through dinner. At Essen 4 very disagreeable Dutch-German men got into our compartment. We had been unable to get a wagon-lit. They smoked and talked about us. Rosendahn (?) Dutch frontier (?) all out about 10 P.M. and after that had compartment to ourselves. Belgian frontier Feignes (?). Did not have to get out 3 A.M. Took tickets constantly during the night. No sleep. 1 ½ hours late. Reached Paris Gare du Nord 7-35. E. and I have separate rooms on the court side. She on 2nd, I on third. Ethel, Arthur and Jane here also. Lina and Miss D.V. unpacked and settled. Lunched with Dupees and E. at Voisins. Bon Marche gloves and Beaman rue de Bac paper not right. Errands. Called Mme Avril. Eve (evening) I dined Dupee’s and E. at restaurant des Alpes 10 Marche’ St. Honore.”
“Wednesday, September 14th, Fair. P.M. Hot. Shopped. Printemps and Gallerie. Lunched former. P.M. Trois Quarters bought white knit dress 65 fr. and black cloth dress. E., Lina, Miss D.V. and I dined little Bourisn restaurant across the street. Old Russian Prince of Port Maneil (?) days came in. Edward VII Theater and saw Le Coeur Dispose. Good.”
“Thursday, September 15th, Paris. Fair, Cooler. Bank. Lunched at des Alpes with Lina and Miss D.V. Bought honey and figs. Hotel and ate latter. To Rodin Museum. Had tea at a Foyer for working girls, Rue Vaneau. Delicious bread and butter. Madame, a music teacher, played and sang to us. Lee Aveugle de and Mme in after dance both had tea with us. Dined with Lina, Miss D.V. and Miss Cecelia Beaux at Restaurant Les Mariniers elsee (?) St. Louis Pont, excellent and view of river and lights too beautiful. Walked up along river.”
Self-Portrait, 1894
oil on canvas
Unframed: 25 x 20 in.
Framed: 30 x 25 1/4 x 1 1/8 in.
National Academy Museum, New York
(67-P)
(This is the woman Mary said she had lunch with on September 15th. Eliza Cecilia Beaux (May 1, 1855 – September 17, 1942) was an American artist and the first woman to teach art at the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts. Known for her elegant and sensitive portraits of friends, relatives, and Gilded Age patrons, Beaux painted many famous subjects including First Lady Edith Roosevelt, Admiral Sir David Beatty and Georges Clemenceau.)
“Friday, September 16th, Fair. Errands. Lunched with Ethel, Jane and E. at Colombier. Pressed E.’s things, out with her to buy feathered mules! (I believe these are shoes). Errands. Dined Ethel, J., E. and I in Ethel’s salon. Packed. Lina appeared and talked till 12-30.”
“Saturday, September 17th, Fair. Wrote. Ethel and I lunched Colombier. Errands. Flammarion, 29 Rue Richelieu, Bon Marche’ Beauvais. Trois Quarters. Tea alone Tuileries Gardens. Dined du Alpes with Lina and Miss D.V. Packed. E. to Brussels 8-10 train to stay with Mme Avril, acting there there until Wednesday.”
“Sunday, September 18th, Rain all day. Wrote, read. Lunched at Hotel with Ethel and Jane. Had talk with Miss Lovening. With Ethel and Jane to service 2-30 at Notre Dame. Stayed till 4-30. Procession with candles, some good music. Wonderful light on caps of Sisters of Charity in front. 70 Louvre where Jane and I hunted up the Vermeers La Dentelliere. Hot, crowded and bad air, picture wonderful! Met Ethel for tea at Colombier. Lina and Miss D.V. to Malmaison today. Eve (evening) Lina and I sat in Dupee’s parlor.”
“Monday, September 19th, Paris. Lena and Miss D.V. left for Cherbourg 8-45 sailing tomorrow. S. S. office, Flammarion. Lunched alone des Alpes. Errands. Dined with Ethel and Jane at Au Rendez-vous des Maunieis (Could possibly be Meunier which is a bakery) Quai d’ Anjou Ile St. Louis.”
“Tuesday, September 20th, Big batch of letters! Errands. Lunched Printemps. Hotel and found Miss Baker, Constance Williston’s friend at lunch having brought Constance from Touse (?) to the American Hospital at Neuilly. I took Metro to Porte Maillot and train 62 and had 20 minutes with E. Has had intestinal indigestion. Found hats from Cavy wrong so took them back and waited. Ethel, Jane and I dined Aux Rendevous des Mariniers. Delicious and Madame fascinating. Packed.”
“Wednesday, September 21st, Paris. Fair, Warm. Ethel and Jane left at 9 for Cherbourg sailing this afternoon on the Adriatic. Packed. Saw to checking trunks through S. S. office man to Boulogne. Met Anne Nourse. Lunched Colombier Gallerie for handkerchiefs. Via taxi (?)and train to hospital at Neuilly to see Constance. Saw her doctor who said he thought she might sail for home in two weeks. Took her flowers, bought in Neuilly near hospital, taxi to Porte Maillot. Tea in Tuileries Garden. Louvre for a last glance at the Salls La Caze, the Flemish and Dutch rooms and bought photos of the Vermeer Dentellière. Elizabeth back at 6-30 from Brussels. We dined at Le Petit Voisin Cor Rue Cambon and Montabor (Mont Thabor).”
“September 22nd, Paris to Boulogne. Back the Gallerie for more handkerchiefs. Met E. there doing the same. Lunched Gallerie alone. Rue Bernoulli. Left things of Clara’s. Saw Rosalie and Charlotte. Left Metropolitan 2-30. Took train 3-15 from Gare du Nord. Arriving Boulogne 7-10. Through Duane, boarded tender and left dock after dark. Boarded Centennial State about 9-30. Have large stateroom. No. 9 and toilet and shower in which I pay $200. E. $250. Unpacked and dined.”
As you can see above, Mary’s name on the passenger list. After this there are no entries but several more pages of ephemera. Clara is not listed on the passenger list (included) that’s heading back to the states so it looks like she stays in France, but Elizabeth Saltonstall is. I did find an envelope in the back and on the front of it, it says, “Mary Pepin (or Pefin) Jaxosounne de la Niche”. Inside the envelope I found a postcard of the Chateau and this was written on the back was one of the most beautiful messages and what a way to end Mary’s trip and this tribute……
“Coming Through” all our love and friendship so as to travel home with you. It’s precious but not dutiable, takes up no space but fills everything. Has no effect upon the scales but weighs more in our lives than aught else. Costs nothing but is more precious than diamonds and though a thing of spirit, stands any strain that can be put upon it, therefore we send it to you and hope it will always be at hand in time of need. We have enclosed its talisman so that it may be a visible token and give you no chance to forget its presence and that two houses have guarded it and keep its memory green. There you will find it “at home” whenever you open the doors in the far distant land of Auvergne. Who knows, perhaps in a future life it may help us find each other when we have “come through!”
To Hear the Episode this Goes With:
Sallys Diaries Private Collection 