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In Mary DeForest Denny’s 1921 diary, she wrote of a journey to France with a good friend, artist Clara Greenleaf Perry. It was a memorable and historical trip filled with once in a life time experiences. Here in part II, you’ll be able to immerse yourself in one woman’s adventures as she leaves Paris traveling 300 miles, bound for the Chateau Lafayette. On the way she visits some of the battlefields of WWI, stays at the Chateau for 10 days and then it’s on to Beg Meil a French seaside town. All the while being surrounded by a colony of artist friends and visiting some of the most iconic places France has to offer.
What you’ll find below is the full transcription of a diary that we used for our 66^th Episode for our Diary Discoveries Podcast. If you wish to listen to that episode scroll to the bottom of this page. And on a side note, as I transcribed Mary’s 192 page diary, I found out quickly that her writing was one of the most difficult I’ve read. Not only that, she’s in France and so all the French words were very difficult to figure out, including the fact that sometimes Mary’s misspelled them. With all that said, here’s Mary in her own words…

1921

“Monday June 13th, Fair cool. Versailles 9 A.M. train. Started from there in motor driven by William for battlefields and devastated region. Arthur, Clara and Laura and myself. Had difficult time in getting to Meaux with out going through Paris. Asked many people the way. Arrived Meaux about noon. Picnic lunch in woods outside Meaux. Saw the M____just before Meaux and crossed river at M. though the valley of the Maine Chateau. The devastation terrible. To Beleau Woods before Chateau where is large American Cemetery. Just in front of the wood where there was terrible fighting and many thousands were killed. Bodies now being exhumed and sent home, and as for ours! Cannot enter cemetery. Through many devastate villages, some making repairs, some not. One village having a fete by climbing pole. Flowers (?)everywhere. Hay fields anachronisms, flowers blooming, rebuilt houses. Arrived Reim about 4. Frightful devastation all through city more than expected. Cathedral superb in its demolished condition. Tea opposite Cathedral and left for Chalons through white Chalk country. Past Fort Pompelle, saw German tank in near by field. Arrived Chalons du Maine at about 7-30. Hotel _____ (she has left it blank) very clean and good room and food. Ethel, Jeannie, Miss Ingram and little Arthur having gone by train, were already settled there and we dined together late. Ethel, Arthur and I. Some devastation in Chalons and already much repaired. Sent cable to Farnsworth’s signed Dewey Dupee.”

Belleau Cemetery

Reims Cathedral, WWI German Tank and Battlefields.

“Tuesday June 14th, Walked about Chalons, saw Cathedral. In motor with Ethel, Jeannie and little Arthur others by train to Verdun direct. We to Souain through supple and country like Cape at Chetam (Chatham) then high dunes desolate and wind swept like Nantucket. A carpet of flowers, poppies everywhere. About 1 hour to Shune (“Souain-Perthes-Les-Hurlus” National Cemetery”) the cemetery that Farnsworth made and presented last Nov. to the French government. Here are buried Henry and those of the Foreign Legion who fell near there. Two grass plots with curb where the men are buried inside the heavy wall. (She has a pressed leaf on this page). Tablets at each end with the names and at the entrance side inscription in both French and English written by ex-president Eliot. The shrine facing entrance with wreaths etc. We left flowers, red roses and 2 white ones from Nora and May Snelling. 4 people arrived in limousine as we left but we did not know them. 4 people arrived in limousine as we left but we did not know them. Lunched at St. Menehould. Germans were there in 1914 but not much devastation and has been repaired. Looked quite prosperous. Went through country very fertile, like Conn. Apple orchards, hay fields and high at times like the Berkshires….

Bayonet Trench

“Wednesday June 15th, Fair. I returned to Paris in motor alone with Arthur. The others all by train. Left Verdun 9-30 back through St. Menehould (Sainte-Menehould) to Reims past Fort Pompelle in a different road than the one going down. Saw truck stuck trying to cross road and go up bank at side. Visited the old old church St. Remy (Saint Remi) in Reims which has stood since the time of Clovis. Fearfully damaged but one aisle has been rebuilt and services are held there. The destruction of Reimi struck me all over again as perfectly terrible and heartbreaking. Lunched at ______ (she leave it blank) Hotel. Through Soissons, again frightfully destroyed. Fismes and along the Aisne. William the chauffeur took us to La Havs a small place where when the Soissons railroad was cut off in 9 places he drove a ___ammion (?) motor ammunition to this place where the guns were placed. His regular job was driving the officers. Motored through the Manellum, peaceful beech (beach?)finest of Compiegne. Had tea opposite the Palais in the garden and pictured Mrs. Moulton at her house party dining next to Louis Napoleon and singing Three Little Kittens Have Lost Their Mittens. Reached Paris 7-30 and going down the boulevard ran into two boys riding a bicycle trundled wagon, knocked me several feet into the ground the other in front under the car. Both arose unhurt. Crowd of at least 200 gathered at once. Later 2 gendarmerie (law enforcement) arrived. Everyone calm and quiet. I assured boys and gendarmerie that Mons was very gentle and wanted to do what was necessary, that neither he or the chauffeur spoke or understood French and that they must speak calmly, slowly to me. They gave Arthur the name of the boys employer and took Arthur’s address. The employer called at Hotel that eve (evening) and asked 250 frc. for the bicycle trundle wagon. Arthur to go tomorrow to his insurance agent and settle through him. Arrived hotel 8 P.M. Ethel and children all there. Jeannie sharing apartment with me. Eve (evening) Ethel, Arthur and Jeannie sat in our room and talked. I skipped dinner for a bath.”

“Thursday, June 16^th, Fair, Warm. Wrote. Boeklage 11 to try on suit. Emily met me there. Lunched with Louisa Bazeley at her pension 191 Rue de L’universite, sat at table with Miss Belle Sholtey and Miss Morris both very agreeable. Louisa showed me all her purchases. Trocadéroto look for lorgnettes (opera glasses), lost the night Pavlova danced. Did not find them. 35 rue Vaneau Ligue National where the people from Proivinces send theirwork (?)to be sold but not on commission (?). The Duchess d’ Uzes supports it. Bought toy dog!!! Dog tearing Chemiseoff boys and 2 children’sdresses. Tea with Corinne (?)and Mr. Gray, they calling for me in their car at Armenonville in the bois. Dined at the Tour d’ Argent with Arthur, Ethel, Jeannie, Clara, MonsLe Verrier, Captain Lombard. Duch’s (?) cooked me ham. At ten Arthur and Mme Le V. began to talk about Hoover (?). At 12 the discouraged waiters announced there was a taxi outside.”

“Friday, June 17^th, Fair. Warm. Rue Vaneau to buy another toy dog. Not open until 2 P.M. Louvre and spent 25 minutes in the Tommy Thiemet (?)collection. Walked miles to ____ there in the Louvre inside. Wonderful Corots, some in ____ones and beautiful. Millets La Couseuse, La Precaution, Maternelle. Daubigny’s and Rousseau. Lunched Hotel. Arthur and children and Miss Ingram 1 o’clock train to Cabourg. Arthur to sail next week for home to return in August. Ethel and Jeannie stayed till 4-40 train. I to Printemps for perfume for Ethel and to Gallerie La Fayette. Bought 2 hats, both with blue instead of black. Hotel to say good bye to Ethel and Jeanne. Changed hats at Gallerie. Emily, Constance, Miss Tapley and Clara for tea which we had at Smith’s. Dined alone at Chinese Umbrella.”

(Sally here, check out this wonderful website about Printemps Department Store)

Retail, Au Printemps (1920s)

“Saturday, June 18^th, Boeklege 9-30. Emily met me there. Bank. Met Katherine Rhodes, S.S. Office. Emily and lunched. Gallerie La Fayette. Exchanged lingerie. Rue Vaneau Bon Marche. Tea opposite Luxembourg Rue de Medicis. Skipped dinner. Trimmed hats until late.”

“Sunday, June 19^th, Fair, cloudy, cold. Washed hair again. Read letters, packed. Emily lunched with me at hotel. P.M. I tried to go to Suresnes to Cemetery where is buried Charlie Fisbee boy but crowds too great. At Porte Maillot, going there, to Louvre to Tommy Thiemet collection. Liked particularlybeside the Millets and Corots, a Michel ________, 3 Troyens, Girl with Turkeys and farm yard scene without a cow and one medium sized one with cows. A _______ of 2 women hanging out clothes to try, a bridge by. To Emily’s room at Hotel l’univers et Portugalfor tea. Constance and Miss Baker joined us. Emily to Hotel with me. Dined alone there and packed late. Clara for night. Wrote.”

“Monday June 20th, Cloudy cold. Left hotel 7 A.M. Clara and I took train at Gare de Lyon 7-40 for Paulhaguet. Charming well bred French family in the same compartment part way. Papa, mama, and 2 sons. Both in the war. One I overheard cursing out the Ford Car he had driven in the war. They make the advance, son did, by asking to borrow the N.Y. Herald and then the boys delighted in trying their English which they had learned from the American soldiers. Excellent de’jeuner. After Clermont Ferrand country thrilling. The Mts, towns, Chateaus and ruins. Saw the Puyde (Puy-de-Dome) Dome. Passed through Nevers on the way. Arrived Paulhaguet at 7-30. 12 boys from the school, Mme Le Verrier, Mons Bernard, General and a clothier, Mr. Mayayet and wife to meet Clara. She literally disappeared off the train into a sea of arms and embraces. Truck covered with flowers inside and out and Am. and French flags. 19 of us in all drove the 5 miles to the Chateau.

Stopped at Mme Bernard’s house in Paulhaguet on the way. Sleeping in the pavilion. Meals at the school. After supper Clara was introduced to La Niche her little house which Mme Le Verrier brought and fixed over for her. Terrace lighted and tree hung with lighted Jap lantern. House consists of 2 rooms one on top of the other and “sort of a cellar.” Villager peaking to see the fun. From Mons (Monsieur) le Cure to the humblest. House all furnished with Clara’s own things. Linen hemstitched curtains and table cloths made for her!”

“Tuesday June 21st, Fair, cold, windy. Clara, Mme Le Verrier, I to see restoration in and about the Chateau. A mess with 120 workmen there. Visited the school and the Preventorium. Mons Bernard, Miss Wagner secretary, Miss MacDonald English teacher have their meals with us. Boys sang English songs for us. P.M. Sat on Niche. Read, tea. Clara, Mme Le Verrier and I took walk.”

Chateau Lafayette Before Renovation and the Preventorium for Children with Illness’s

“Wednesday, June 22^nd, Cold, fair. Out with Clara while she sketchedthe group of Spanish looking buildings. I tried doing it. P.M. Alone to pines behind school. Read there. Wrote.”

“Thursday, June 23^rd, Cloudy, cold. To field of yesterday to finish sketch alone. Early de’jeuner with Miss Wagner and went in truck with her and Pierre to Langeac through St. Genge (?). Market day at Langeac town thronged with peasants. Old woman sang in the Market place. I bought linen and hat. Miss W. many commissaries. Eat cakes at a Patisserie shop and drank beer at a cafe. Real coquotte (she might mean Cocotte which is a French cast iron cooking pot or Dutch oven)there. Appeared from inside! Home for tea at 4-30. Wrote.”

“Friday, June 24^th,Warm, fair. Sat in niche. Wrote. Tea. Clara sketching old buildings which will be torn down. I with her in late P.M. Went with Miss McDonald to see pottery and lace.”

“Saturday, June 25^th, Fair, hot. Miss McDonald, Clara and I walked up lanes into the hills behind. Miss M. and I took a dip into a pool. Clara sketched Mts. and Chavaniac from hillside. I read. Too heavenly. P.M. wrote at La Niche. After tea Mme Le Verrier and I had a long talk and made plans at La Niche for Clara’s future. Walked after supper to the Preventorium and sat on the grounds with the nurses.”

“Sunday, June 26^th, Left Chavaniac 9-30 in Morse Caravan with 11 boys, this expedition the reward for studying well and getting their “certificate.” Mme Le Verrier, Mons Mayoyet, Miss McDonald, Clara and self for Leotoing ruined Chateau on top of Mt. Arrived there 12-50 after passing through St. George, La Vieille Brioude, etc. along river and valley. Lunched in pavilion belonging to restaurant opposite. Very hot so did not climb to ruins as did the boys but sat under chestnut tree in side of hill, sewed and read. We 4 women talked, Clara painted the ruins. Shower came upon us but we huddled together and kept dry. Left about 5. Home through ________ (she leaves itblank) along the valley of the mcking (?)at Brioude, a perfect circle. Home 8.”

“Monday, June 27^th, Chavaniac. Wrote. Went up the hills for wild roses “eglantine”, honey suckle, Chevrefeuille for La Niche. Mme Le V. and I sat and worked and talked there. P.M. Read on bed at La Niche, heat terrific. Sketched La Niche. Mme L.V. and I broke news to Clara about letter to Lady Astor. Eve (evening) Clara, Mme Le V. and I walked up the hill behind the school. Hay Makers still at work. Sat till dark on hill under pines, too beautiful. During the haying season the men get up at 3 to work and they return in the eve (evening)at 10. The women not only get their meals before going out and sup at ten but work also in the fields!!!”

“Tuesday, June 28^th, Fair, very hot. Left Chavaniac 7 A.M. ½ hr. late for St. Etienne in Cadillacwith Mons Dishon driving Pierre behind Mons Bernard, Mme Le Verrier, Mme Wagner, Clara, self. Went over the Mts., toobeautiful, having rained in the night. Such pine and oak forests. Down into the Prefecture (this means a territorial division) de La Louie, ___ of the Prefecture de la Haute Loire. Quite different looking country, more trees about the villages but lacking the beautiful blue distant views and ____ trees along the roadside. In two villages looked at lodgings for Mons Le V. 1^stat Mc ___haguetsur Lac. Clean but uninteresting. Clara and I went to see Cathedral at St. Bonnet le Chateau, perfectly fascinating, such a view commanding the city and the Mt. Very, very old towers and walls. Must return there. Went through L’Alegro where lived the Gabrielle d’Estrees. Two towers, old, old, standing there. Lunched 12-30 in garden under trees of cafe. Brought our own luncheon but got there delicious wine., cherries and strawberries. Heat terrific. St. Etienneat 2. To Manufacture and store of Arms and utensils of all kinds, enormous plant where one can buy from catalogue. 2 hrs there, heat intense. Errandsin new stores. Very modern and large. Great center for manufacture of arms during the war. The Lorie backed the war as no other prefecture. Americans, many of them, at St. Etienne. Started from St. Etienne. Mons Le Verrier born there. At 5-30 back another way over and around the mountains, high up, continuous hair pin curves. The Lorie (a river) always below with little water. To Le Puy where we arrived at 9 P.M. The men and Miss Wagner dined there. Clara, Mme Leand myself climbed up through the city so like Algiers with the old narrow impossible (could be impassable) streets to the Cathedral, 9^thCent. A high climb. Then down to the bridge from which we saw the church built on a high rock in the middle of the river. Looked like a needle in the sky. Very old church also below. 9-45 left Le Puy and motored through and over the mountains before us and at first below me a tremendous electric thunder storm lasting until we reached home 11-30 but we never got with it. Blue sky and bright stars over us all the time.”

Saint-Bonnet-le-Château 

“Wednesday June 29th, Fair. P.M. showers. Wrote. Took photos. P.M. early tea and with Mme Le Verrier, Clara, Pierre and Mons Le Curt (?) in Henrietta (the Ford). Went house hunting up in the Mts. above Chavaniac. At little town ¾ of hr. away. Called Jaques (Jax). With Le Cuyre’ de Jaques tour around the place back and front. Saw enchanting home. Very clean belonging to a very nice family. With a little fixing over would be perfect. Inspected the Buvette (French word for bar or the like). Durnken man there. Cure’ de Jaque had been on the Aisne, Verdun and Somme battle fronts. Very tall and filthy and unshaven. Saw also a little house of his to which the key would not fit. Men had to climb in the windows and open from inside. Home in hard shower. Very beautiful.”

(Sally here: I believe these two photos you see on the above page were taken in Jax. Mary also has tons of photos that were loose, also photos I believe taken while in Jax. See below. Then I found a fantastic website (click link below) that show tons of Photos of Jax, then and now and some of them match up with the photos Mary took. So amazing.)

https://www.cpauvergne.com/2018/08/jax.html

“Thursday, June 30^th, Shower. Packed. Wrote at La Niche. Had a substantial tea and left at 5-45 to take train at Paulhaguet for Paris. A bit late we, round trip tickets needed a supplement and we just got ourselves onto the train, bag and baggage. Clara, Mme Le Verrier and myself and the young thin French architect Mme Dalencon (could also be Dalencour). Mme Le Verrier signed a lease this A.M. for the house at Jax for two years at twenty two dollars a year and is enchanted. Clara, Mme Le V. and I spent night in day coach stretched out on seats. Slept a bit towards evening.”

“Friday, July 1^st, Paris. Fair, cool, perfect. Arrived Paris 6-15. Taxi with Clara and Mme Le V. to Hotel Metropolitan.Small room 3^rdfloor. Bath and dejeunerand out to Prefet de Police for Carte d’identité (National identity card).Must have this if stay in France 2 months. Arrived there 9.05, got no 79. Stayed till 11 then to Metropolitanand saw Annie Apthorp and Sarah at lunch. Annie’s dress and music did not come. I offered to look them up. They off 11-30 for London. I lunched Depeuch 6 fr. Restaurant opp. Comedie Francaise to Carly’s to look up Annie’s dress, no satisfaction, back to Police. Sat till 3-30 then no called and left 4 P.M. To call for card when I return to Paris. Gallerie (?) for trunk, etc. Dined Hotel. Met Jane and David Cheever. Tried on suit at Boeklage.”

“Saturday, July 2^nd, Paris. Fair, cool, perfect. Wrote. Jane Cheever called before I was up. Boeklage, tried coat. Bank. Paid for suit, $103.00. Durand’s for Annie’s music, closed. Kodak, place closed. E. Saltonstalland lunched Depeuch’s and to Fragonard exposition. Trois Quarter, bought trunk 250 fr, Mackintosh 59 frs. Solid sweater, white wood 29.50 frs. Tea with Louisa Bazeley, Paillards on Champs Elysee. Her birthday tomorrow. Music and pretty there. Walked to station Quai D’ Orsay to get seats on train to Quimper, had already bought tickets RR at Cook’s this P.M. Strolled along the Quai Bookstalls. Bought La V. the Mme La Fayette bound. Dined at Chinese restaurant Rue Mount Thabor. Eve (evening)packed.”

“Sunday July 3rd, Fair, cool, perfect. Called at Mme Le Verrier. Saw Clara’s portrait of Jean Pierre. Think it her best I have seen. Lunched alone, Depeuch. To Palais de Glace to exhibition of things made in the Provincials (?). To exhibition of Russian pictures Galerie Boetie. Saw criticum (“Criticum” is a Latin word that can refer to both an adjective and a noun, both related to the concept of “criticism” or “critical judgment”) of pictures in L’Europe Nouvelle. Extraordinary but very interesting. The landscapes thrilling. Met Clara and Mme Le Verrier at Pres’ Catalin (which I think she means Le Pre’ Catelan) for tea. My party and me strolled through the Bois to the Tarriere (?). Took Metro home. Dined hotel alone. Packed and wrote.”

(Sally here: The Palais de Glace —– Galerie La Boetie Est. 1912, closed 1941. It’s the round domed building you see in the background of the picture above. Interesting thing concerning this place. In 1920, Rue la Boétie in Paris was a bustling hub of artistic activity, notably home to Pablo Picasso’s studio and Paul Rosenberg’s influential gallery at No. 21. During this period, Picasso created works like “Artist’s studio on street La Boetie” (1920). The area was central to the postwar, roaring twenties art scene.)

“Monday July 4th, Paris. Beg Meil via Quimper. Fair, Warm. Left Paris 7-51 train. No changes for Quimper. Met Elizabeth in compartment. Hot but clean and comfortable ride. Dejeuner on restaurant car. Fatherly Frenchman who had lost son in the war saw us from dining car and told me where to go and what to see in Brittany. Went via Nantes. Arrived Quimper 8-30 P.M. No auto bar, learned it only meets night train. In garage while E. waited on platform with luggage. Hired motor 110 fr. to take us. Night rate. Very high. Had delicious tea and crepes at station. Chauffeur said my canvas bag gened (this is a French word that means embarrassed) him and then stopped and took his wife along. Saw men with velvet streamers to their hats and almost had hysterics. Chauffeur drove like mad. Arrived Beg Meil, hotel da Duner, 10-30 P.M. Have two good rooms, garden side, all included 30 fr. per day.”

Hotel Dunes where Mary and Elizabeth are staying and a long shot of Beg Meil.

“Tuesday July 5th, Beg Meil. Fair Cool. Elizabeth and I strolled about garden and to Grande Hotel on the cove kept by the same people. Very attractive terrace there but we like the beach and bathing out at our hotel. Also like our room very much on third floor over looking the garden with a little view of the sea and Concarneau. P.M. sat by the beach. Elizabeth read aloud, Celui Qui Suprema la Mort by Mme Vignaud (Meaning “He Who Overcame Death” in French). Bathed at 4, best water, clear and like West Chap, even better. Had tea in our room from our own basket. Eve (evening)sat on cliff, read aloud and wished until 9-45.”

“Wednesday July 6th, Fair, warmer. Wrote. P.M. Read aloud, beach. Took auto bus 3-30 to Fouesnant, 3 miles towards Quimper to hire bicycle. Proprietor out. Left order for bicycle to be sent Friday. Price 5 fr. per day by week. Walked home. Bath. Eve (evening)read on cliffs. Mrs. Robert Peabody and Mrs. Chase re Monks Marion and daughter here.”

“Thursday July 7^th, Beg Meil. Fair, hot. Wrote. E. and I errands. Found Jane and David Cheever. Eve (evening)cliffs.”

“Friday July 8^th, Fair hot. Wrote. Elizabeth by motor with Cheever to Quimper. I sat on terrace of Grande Hotel and wrote. P.M. E. and I read on beach harbor side. Finished “Celui Qui Suprema La Mort.” Bathed and left 5 P.M. with Cheever’s by motor for Pont Aven for dinner at Hotel Julia. Stopped at Concarneau on the way. Boats with red, brown, yellow and blue sails and with fine fish nets hung over boats to dry like phantom sails. Too lovely.”

“Saturday, July 9^th, Beg Meil. Fair, hot. Elizabeth and I rode bicycle from 10-11. Bathed. P.M. wrote. Read and worked on beach and had tea there. Eve (evening)sat on rocks with Jane and David Cheever.”

“Sunday July 10^th, Fair. Hot. E. and I bicycled. Bathed. P.M. Cheever’s left directly after lunch by motor. Wrote. Beach and read. Tea at Hotel, I alone with Miss Chase and went to Mrs. Chase’s room to see her water color. Liked some of them immensely much, character and life. Eve (evening) sat with Chase’s and Miss Peabody. E. read aloud on cliffs and out on beach. Wonderful eve (evening)with moon.”

“Monday, July 11^th, Beg Meil. Fair, very hot. E. and I bicycled and bathed. P.M. went to Concarneau on boat, 2-15, from Grande Hotel pier, sailed and chugged and arrived in about 40 minutes. Wandered about the old town. Saw funeral procession pass over the bridge into the old town. Shopped. Had tea at Patisserie shop outside. Saw almost a fight between 2 fishermen. Back on boat leaving at six. Miss Chase who had been painting there all day back with us. Eve (evening)sat on bank. Read and sewed. Went in bathing 9-30 with Mrs. and Miss Chase. Too perfect!”

“Tuesday June 12th, Beg Meil. Fair. Hot. Wrote, read, bicycled, swam. P.M. Wrote. Tea on terrace. E. sketched on beach. I read. Eve (evening) sat on dune. E. and I bathed at ten. Saw Mrs. Chase’s and Mrs. Peabody’s pictures.”

(Sally here: Before I go any further I want to mention that although June 12th is a short entry, it was one of my favorites because she talks about being on terrace at the Dune writing and having tea. In fact she mentions the terrace often in her entries. Then she puts these postcards on the next page and you can see a long shot of the hotel showing the terrace and then an inside shot of the terrace. Wouldn’t I have loved to have been there with Mary. Wouldn’t I love to go there now, knowing she was there.)

“Wednesday, July 13^th, Hot, cloudy. P.M. Fair. Wrote, read, bicycled, bathed. P.M. Tried to play tennis no gr. Took tea basket onto rocks with Mrs. Peabody, Mrs. and Miss Chase. Water would not boil. So lovely. Elizabeth and Miss Chase returned to Hotel and brought us back a sappler (sample?) of lobster soup, etc. and we stayed at the point until 9. E. read aloud her mother’s letters to me. Sent back bicycles.”

“Thursday, July 14^th, Beg Meil. Port Manec’h. Fair. Hot. Little cloudy. Bathed. P.M. wrote on terrace. Tea. E. and I played tennis, she with Miss Spence (?). Irish girl, I with lump of a French girl. Swim. Eve (evening)on terrace and on cliff. Packed.”

“Friday, July 15^th, Fair. Wrote, bathed. Were to have left 12-30 by motor for Pont Aven and take boat there at 2-30 for Port Manec’h. Motor not ready till 1-10. Arrived Pont Aven at 2-10. All the directions the woman at Hotel Julia would give us to how to “de’pechez, de’pechez.” (Which means “hurry up, hurry up.”) so we drove furiously to boat to find it had left at 2 P.M. Hotel Julia woman terrible talker. Motored in ____ limousine to Port Manec’h which Madame at Beg-Meil refused to let us do declaring the road “mauvaise” (This is a French word that means “bad”). Road perfect but we had 2 punctures and the jack broke at first try. Arrived Hotel Julia Port Manec’h 5-30. Motor to P.A. to cost 125 fr. We paid man 25 more and 10 ____ _____ but he did not think it enough. Hotel built round a garden. Each room has its own front door and door mat. Our room face the sea and light house. Had tea on terrace. Settled and eve (evening) walked about. Shower in night.”

“Saturday July 16th, Port Manec’h. Fair, cloudy, showers eve (evening) rain at 4 A.M. Sat at window from 6 on. E. and I walked to beach and on bank above the river by enchanting little church in woods like Nashua (?). Big chestnut trees grow right down to the sand of the beach. Bathed, not clear and buoyant like Beg-Meil. Hotel has bath houses on beach. P.M. Wrote. Big mail came and Cable from Hallowell Gardnier nine lb. boy all well. (It’s here she has pasted a partial telegram note to the page). E. and I walked along cliffs like Lynton (?) over the moors to further beach and home inland by farms and grain fields. Man gave us a lead home. A peasant. Eve (evening)sat on terrace and played Canfield in my room by candlelight.” (Canfield is solitaire)

“Sunday, July 17^th, Port Manec’h. Fair, cloudy, eve (evening)showers. Walked to little church, no service Sundays since the war. Sketched. Bathed. P.M. Wrote and took tea basket to cliffs. Wrote there. Eve (evening) terrace and cards.”

“Monday, July 18^th, Fair. Wrote. P.M. Tea on terrace. P.M. Walked alone to further beach. Russians there playing games. Unsuccessful swim. English women and sisters very discontented. Came by boat from Pont Aven for tea. Eve (evening) terrace and cards.”

“Tuesday, July 19^th, Wrote letters in garden till lunch time. Received great bunch of letters. Tea in my room. E. sketched boats at pier. I walked and bathed. Eve (evening)terrace and piquet.”

“Wednesday, July 20^th, Hot. Eve (evening) cool. Breakfast early. E. painted tree and grain fields. I on to old farm yard with well. Sketched and was an hour late for luncheon. P.M. Wrote. E. washed hair. Tea on terrace. Beach. I read aloud. Bathed. Eve (evening) sat on cliffs and read aloud. Piquet. Marvelous moon. Walked about at 10-30 P.M.”

“Thursday, July 21^st, Fair, cooler eve (evening)cool. Early breakfast. E. and I sketched in farm yard with well. I barn and haystacks. P.M. Wrote. Tea in my room. Beach, read aloud and knitted on steps of little church. I bathed. Eve (evening)walked cliffs. Watched dancing of Spanish family and Eng. man and wife. Played piquet. Marvelous moon.”

“Friday, July 22^nd, Fair, cool, perfect. Out early and sketched sea and grain cocks and apple tree. P.M. Wrote. Tea on terrace. Bathed. Eve (evening) piquet and walked.”

“Saturday, July 23^rd, Fog and slight rains. Read. Walked. P.M. Wrote. Tea on rocks. Read there. Bathed. Eve (evening) piquet and packed.”

“Sunday, July 24^th, Fair, perfect. Bathed at 9-45. Packed. P.M. sewed. Shopped. _____ where anyone of larks were singing. (Not sure about that last sentence). Tea on terrace. Left on boat at 6 P.M. for Pont Aven. Old man on dock gave me a confidential dissertation on fish. Arrived Pont Aven 6-30. Auto to meet us and we drive 18 kilometers to Quimperle’. Stopped at Hotel Julia Pont Aven to get letters. Square filled with peasants in costume, some playing bag-pipe. At one 4 corners road filled with peasants, some dancing. Arrived Quimperle 7-15. Left luggage at station and went to Hotel Lion d’ Or. Very good dinner. E. and I walked about the town, two Cathedrals and some very old picturesque houses. E. and I roomed together. Read letters aloud.”

TO BE CONTINUED IN PART III

To Hear the Episode this Goes With:

https://www.sallysdiaries.com/podcast/episode/7cee1e1c/66-the-chateau-lafayette-and-the-women-it-captivated-1921