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In Mary DeForest Denny’s 1921 diary, she wrote of a journey to France with a good friend, artist Clara Greenleaf Perry. It was a memorable and historical trip filled with once in a life time experiences. Here in part I, you’ll be able to immerse yourself in one woman’s adventures while she sails across the Atlantic to experience Paris during the great roaring twenties; all the while being surrounded by a colony of artist friends and visiting some of the most iconic places Paris has to offer.
What you’ll find below is the full transcription of a diary that we used for our 66^th Episode for our Diary Discoveries Podcast. If you wish to listen to that episode scroll to the bottom of this page. And on a side note, as I transcribed Mary’s 192 page diary, I found out quickly that her writing was one of the most difficult I’ve read. Not only that, she’s in France and so all the French words were very difficult to figure out, including the fact that sometimes Mary’s misspelled them. With all that said, here’s Mary in her own words…

1921

“Sunday, May 1^st, Rain, cold. Left Dedham 2 P.M. in taxi with Uncle. Took 3 P.M. train from B. Bay station with Clara Perry, my traveling companion, to New York. Tony, Lina Hardy, Bessie Saltonstall and Bill Wee saw me off. Nellie Denny met us at Grand Central with Mr. Lanier’s motor and took us bag and baggage, Clara to 69^th St. Station.”

“Monday, May 2^nd, Fair, perfect. Called for Clara at 69^th Street at Mr. Bodman’s and together to Custom House for sailing permit. At 9-45 line already stretched the length the building but in ½ hour we had finished. To U.S. Mail SS office. Very stupid clerk there. Grand Central, collected our trunks and took them in a taxi to pier 74 end of 34^th St. Went on board Old North State, saw our stateroom, No. 205, upper deck, small but pleasant. Auntie Janie and Fannie lunched at Irene’s. I had tea with Evelyn Griswold and Will. Saw all the children. Irene and I dined at Mr. Lanier’s. Aunt Janie, Nellie, George and Mlle (Mademoiselle)there.”

“Tuesday, May 3rd, Fair, perfect. Wrote letter. Read in N.Y. Times that Old North State would probably not sail in account of strike among the crew. Telephoned S.S. office and they assured me she would sail 2 P.M. Evelyn Griswold took me in her motor to the dock. Policeman guarding entrance said boat would sail. Very quiet on pier and steamer. Evelyn and I sat on deck for sometimes. At 4-30 steamer left the dock but only as far as Hoboken. Anchored until 11-30. Took on entire new crew. Dinner at 9. Voyage an eventful one. No plumbing worked with salt water for many days. Fresh water pipes burst everywhere. Leak in our stateroom and flood at night. Had to take all my bags outside. Duffle bag stolen! Never found. Crew and passengers behaved well. Our steward Coney Island!” (She then skips to May 15^th on their arrival in Plymouth)

“Sunday May 15th, Stopped at Plymouth to land, mail and a few passengers at 6 A.M. Clara dressed and out on deck but too late, we only stopped 10 minutes. Reached Boulogne.”

“Monday May 16th, At 1-45 A.M. landed from steamer in a tender at 2-30 A.M. Duane (? not sure of this word) kept open all night at dock for us. Left dock at 4 A.M. in a bus for station. Light first appearing. Finished registering luggage at 6-10 when Clara and I went to a cafe across the street for a glass of coffee. Train left Boulogne at 6-30. Another scramble to get all baggage into the train. Clara having 4 trunks, numerable suit cases and bags hold all boxed bicycle and boxed pastel portrait of French Captain. Which we took in the carriage with us. Very polite young man, American, in same carriage who helped us by getting porter for on the arrival in Paris. Saw dugouts and barracks, barbed wire and stacks of old shells all along the way Apple blossom, peach blossom, lilac. Gorse and Peonies in full bloom. Truly the smiling land of France. Near Amiens saw building that had been shelled. Clara thrilled going through ruins. She was there the night it was under fire and evacuated the next day. Arrived Paris 11-15. way outside the station, no porter then six with trucks. Took one with all our luggage. I to Hotel Metropolitan where Elizabeth Saltonstall had engaged rooms for us. 8 Ave. Cambon. Clara on to Mme Le Verrier’s where she lunched. Found flowers with Bessie Saltonstall’s card in my room. Elizabeth and May Atkinson arrived 10 minutes later and I went to Colombier and lunched with them. Telephoned Dupee’s at Versailles. Washed hair. Louise Bagley dropped in. Bath 1^st time since Sunday A.M. I had taken off my clothes, washed or combed my hair!! The whole Dupee family arrived. Clara and I dined in one apartment and went to bed for the first time since Saturday night. A unique voyage and landing!!! Had letter on the steamer at Bologne from M. Bazeley England, E. Gardiner U.S.A. Emily Williston, Norway, E. Saltonstall and Lucia Bazeley (?), Paris, Ethel Dupee Versailles letter and 2 telegrams.”

“Tuesday, May 17^th, Fair, Cloudy. Coffee in our rooms. Went at 1 with Mons. (Monsieur) and Mme Le Verrier and a Dutch friend Mlle Duyce (?) and Clara to an exhibition of Dutch pictures ______ (?) by Holland from the galleries and private individuals. Marvelous collection of Ancient, the Dutch Barbizon School and the modern. Mme Duyce most interesting about the pictures, a delightful time. 3 Vermeer, one marvelous landscape, the red and blue in the roofs. Alone to Morgan Harper, Place Vendome. Received 3 letters. Lunched at Hotel. Arthur, Ethel, the 3 girls and E. Saltonstall. Walked with Elizabeth to Mlle Avril’s 68 Rue Caumartin and made arrangements for my French lesson. Met Mr. Tucker (or Tuckee)B ___!!(?). Tea with Lucia Bazeley at Colombier. We walked about the Place Vendome shope, etc. Helped Lucia by necktie for her father at Charvet’s.Clara dined at the Le Verrier’s. I dined alone. Talked with Mrs. Sturgis Lathrop. Clara and I talked very late. Wrote letters.”

Wednesday, May 18^th, Cloudy P.M. Rain. Went 11-15 to Versaillesin Dupee’s motor. Had lunch and tea with them at Hotel des Reservoirs. Ethel and I talked long. Paris 5-40 train and walked home from Les Tuileries Station. Found Mme Le Verrier and Clara here. I dined alone in room. Eve wrote.”

“Thursday May 19th, Fair Warmer. Clara and I walked to the rue du Seine through the Tuileries Garden and along the Seine, the other side to Chapion’s 34 where Clara bought pastels. I walked along Seine looking at old books on the quais. Bought La Vie de Madame La Fayette by her daughter. To flower market at Notre Dame but none there. Back to Mademe but no flowers there either only Tuesday’s and Fridays. Colombier for lunch. Unexpectedly met Elizabeth and we lunched together. French lesson 2-45. Walked to No. 2 Rue Bernoulli and had tea at Mme Le Verrier’s. Clara and several French people there. Clara and I dined at Hotel and went to little theater called l’Œuvre where people subscribe and excellent things are given. Saw Hedda Gabbler, excellent performance. Mme Le Verrier gave her the tickets.”

“Friday, May 20^th, Fair, perfect, warm. Wrote. Lunched hotel alone. To Madeleine flower market and bought 8 green plants for balcony. Man brought them to room in his arm walking along beside me in the shirt sleeve and apron. Went with Elizabeth to Lombard’s where she bought green satin evening dress with black lace train and shoes!! French lesson. Tea at English tea room with Clara and Mrs. Le Verrier. I alone to the de l’Œuvre Theater to see Le Pecheur d’ Ombres. Clara was to have gone too but had to go out to meet someone at dinner. Mme Le Verrier again gave the tickets. Sat in balcony but could not hear as well. Play making quite a sensation here. See programe opposite. Walked home! Play out at 12.”

“Saturday, May 21^st, Fair, warm. Clara and I in taxi to Mme Le Verrier’s for her pastels etc. Took 11 o’clock train to Versailles. Sat in park with Ethel and the children. P.M. Clara and Laura made sketches in the park while Ethel and I sat under the trees, talked and sewed. Tea in Duplex apartment. Home in motor. Lively in the Brie about 7. Eve (evening) Clara and I sewed and talked.”

“Sunday, May 22^nd, Fair, perfect warm. Walked alone to Louvre. Stayed about one hour locating pictures. Sat in Tuileries Garden and read letters just received.To Mme Le Verrier’s to pour tea. People asked to meet Mme Duyce from Holland. First came Mm (Mister) Asselin whose book La Hollande Dans le Monde as just been published. He was attached to the French legation in Holland for 4 years, very sensitive and attractive looking. A Dutchman, very “sage” but shy. More fat with a beard, very intellectual writer. The men discussed education. Mme Philips Millais, not attractive looking, silly and very made up. Wife of the editor of a paper, Europe Nouvelle. Mme Bugnand’s sister in law to the minister of Finance. She had been in Serbia during the war. Was in the retreat over the Mts. Read English and American novels, talked a long time with me and drank “China” tea. Mme Vignand. Very attractive, both she and her husband write, lost her son in the war. Knew the Windeleu and Morris Gray. Had just written a book “Celui Qui Supprima La Mort.” (Could be Suprema). Woman in pink cotton with white hat and streamers and very red haired, Dutch cut, white cotton gloves and Buster Brown suit. Did nothing but eat. Last guest left at 7-30. Clara and I dined at hotel.”

“Monday May 23rd, Cloudy, heavy shower. Wrote. French lesson 11-15. Lunched at Colombier unexpectedly with Harriet and Peggy Curtis and Evelyn and Mabel Sturgis and Gertrude Sturgis. Found Ethel and Arthur at hotel on their way to La Touquet to look for rooms for the summer. Bought Mons Asselin’s book La Hollende Dans Le Monde. Read and wrote. Louisa Bazley called for me and we had tea with Eloise Derby at her girl’s (?) restaurant 29 Rue Surcouf across the river. Mme Guilhou, a Mr. Reed, Mrs. Crocker and a Madame there. Delightful place. Louisa and I wandered about the Industrial Fair. Left her at 191 Rue de L’ Universite’. Dined alone at hotel. Wrote. Clara began today portrait of child with bad heart who will not live long.”

“Tuesday May 24th, Fair. Warm. French lesson 11-15. Elizabeth and I lunched at the restaurant Fouquet on the Champs Elysee beyond the Pond Point. Good luncheon. Sat long and talked. Taxied to Hotel. Opera Comique and Francaise about tickets and to Elizabeth’s apartment, opposite the Luxenburg Gardens. Tea together over Smith’s book shop and bought their tea pot for 3.50 francs. Evelyn Sturgis called. Clara and I dined at Hotel and to Femina Theater to see the Russian variety plays. Quite fascinating. Walked home down the Champs Elysee.”

“Wednesday May 25th, Fair, hot. Clara and I settled accounts. She left the Hotel today to stay with Mme Le Verrier, 2 rue Bernoulli. Met Ellen Nicheism Hood in Hotel just leaving for England. French 11-15. Lunched at Gallerie La Fayette 10 franks, wine included. Sturgis there. Bought a few underclothes. Not much choice. Wrote letters and read. Tea alone. Smith’s. To Dutch picture again. Walked Champs Elysee, Ave Mariquy and St. Honore. Clara and Mme Le V. called. Dined St. James Hotel with Sturgis and Louisa B. Opera Comique to hear Louise 1^st time.”

Opera Comique

“Thursday May 26th, Fair, Hot showers. French lesson 11-15. Shopped and luncheon St. Printemps a’ lacarte. Had passport photos taken Rue Cambon nearly opposite Hotel. Louvre to Salle XVI and the Gaze collection. Looked at the Chardin’s particularly, loved them, even the intenns (?) and utensils. Looked at Lancret’s and a few Watteau’s and Greuze. Beautiful time and peaceful. Met Gretchen Rogers Winslow etc. To Magasin Du Louvre. Dined at Mme Le Verrier with Mons Le V. Mme and Clara and all went to Le Theater Vaudeville and saw La Tendresse by Henri Bataille. Subject unpleasant. A man of 60 has tendresse (sentiment). The girl loves him but also loves wrongly a young man. Difficult to hear and indecent. Woman acted well. 3^rd act boring. Walked home.”

“Friday, May 27^th, Fair. Cooler. Wrote. Lunched alone hotel. French lesson 1 P.M. Hotel. Clara and Mme Le V. called after lunching at Voisins with Mr. Boyden. To exhibition of Fugres (?) pictures Rue de Vielle Echelle (Old ladder street is what this means in French, not sure if she has it right.)Did not enjoy the pictures. Tea Smiths. Called on Sturgis St. James Hotel. Saw Mabel. American library Rue d’ E’lysee. Dined with E. Saltonstalland May Atkinson in their apartment and went with E. to the Comedie Francaise to see Le Monde ou L’on S’ Ennuie and Le Sicilien par Moliere (or LeSicilien ou l’Amour peintre).

“Saturday, May 28^th, Cold and Cloudy. Dupee’s motor came for me and took me to Versailles. Took Clara to house where she is painting sick child. Tried on Jeannie’s dresses to her to pick out the one to have her portrait done in. Saw Ethel’s new dresses too. Lunch P.M. Ethel and I talked. Clara arrived at 3-30. Began pastel portrait of Jeannie in salmon pink taffeta dress with silver lace. Posed her in Dupee’s dining room. Background grew panels. Ethel, Laura and I walked about the town and in park. After tea Alice Therman and Lorna Traffand appeared to see Jeannie while we were at dinner. Clara and I have large fruit room. Eve (evening)talked.”

“Sunday, May 29^th, Cold, Clouds and Sun. Jeannie posed for Clara. Laura and I walked about the Little Trianon, took photos, picked flowers and poked about gardens. Beautiful carvings. No Little T. Wonderful trees. Beautiful time. P.M. Jeannie and Arthur took J’s friends to Longchamp races. Ethel and children to hear band in park and see boat races. Clara and I to both Trianon’s outside only and sat in park. Too heavenly in the grass. Jumped down wall with aid of French man. Walked along canal. Back for tea. Eve (evening) talked.”

“Monday, May 30^th, Fair, cold, clouds. Left Versaillesalone 10-11 train. Clara stayed to do on portrait. Ethel, Arthur going to motor to Etretat etc. French lesson 11-15. Lunched hotel alone. P.M. Bank. I alone to see picture. Vast and not too interesting. Met Clara and Mme Le V. at Smith’s for tea. No dinner. Eve (evening) wrote letter and journal in this book.”

“Tuesday May 31st, Wrote. Louisa Bazeley called and Clara and Mme Le Verrier. French lesson 11-15. Lunched at Gallerie La Fayette. Bought white hat and chemise gown to Magasins Le Louvre, bust to Notre Dame. Flowers at flower market. Elizabeth dined with me at the hotel and we went to a concert. See programme, too long and Vera Janacopulos deadly.”

“Wednesday June 1st, Fair. Perfect. 70. Versailles 10 o’clock train to criticize Clara’s portrait of Jeannie. Clara went out yesterday and spent the night and worked. Ethel and Arthur away. 11-45 Jeannie, Clara and I walked as far as the Trianon. After lunch Jeanne sat again. Laura and I went to the Chateau through the Salle de Glace where the peace conference was held through the Louis 14^th and Napoleon room. Clara, Jeannie and I to Paris 4-10 train. Jeanne to stay with me. Clara brought in the portrait. J. and I had tea at Smith’s, bought tickets at Nouveau Cirque. Dined hotel and to Theater Francaise where Elizabeth and May Akinson sat with me. Le Pere Le excellent. Also Les Précieuses ridicules de Moliere.” (The Nouveau Cirque (“New Circus”) was a circus located in Paris at 251 Rue Saint-Honoré. It was owned by Joseph Oller, co-founder of the famous Moulin Rouge. It was inaugurated on February 12, 1886, and closed on April 18, 1926, being subsequently demolished.)

“Thursday, June 2^nd, Fair, perfect, warm. French lesson 9-30. Met Jeannie at Dutch picture exhibition. Elizabeth, J. and I lunched together at Colombier. J. and I took Clara, Laura and Arthur to the Nouveau Cirque. Miss Ingram to Opera Comique to join Elizabeth. Children to Versailles. At 6 J. and I tea at Colombier. Dined hotel and to see Le Retour at the Athenee Theater. Perfectly delightful clean, amusing play each part well acted.”

“Friday, June 3^rd, Fair. Cloudy. Jeannie, Clara and I to the Louvre. French pictures and English and the Salle de Gaze. Lunched opposite Theater Francaise for 6 frs. Good and abundant luncheon, not very clean. French lesson at one. Jeannie and I to Musee Jaquemart Andre (Musée Jacquemart-Andre) open only Friday afternoon. Extraordinary house with dreadful staircases. Had tea at Fullers (American ice cream soda) Rue _______(she leaves it blank) near the opera. Elizabeth joined us, bought cream pitcher, 1 franc. J. and I to Opera house and bought tickets for Sunday night. Dined at hotel and to Le Grand Duc at the theater Edouard VII. Play written by Sacha Guitry. Dull and poor.”

“Saturday June 4th, Fair, warm. Jeannie to French lesson 10-15. I lunched alone at Colombier at 11-45. French lesson 12-15 Aux Trois Quarters. Hotel. Jeannie lunched hotel alone. Both to Luxembourg Museum. Book shop. Called on Elizabeth and Mary Atkinson. All went for tea at Cafe just below. J. and I to Bon Marche. I bought two hats, me @ 53 frs. Satin with quill, other satin top lace trim. Called on Eloise Derby and Louisa Bazeley at 191 Rue de l’Université. (out). Bought honey. Dined hotel. Eve (evening)stayed in and wrote journal.”

“Sunday June 5th, Wrote. Jeannie and I to Russian church. Lunched at Fouquet’s on the Champs Elysee. To the Salon and looked at the sculpture. Bus to Arc de Triomphe, taxi from there to Pres’ Catelin ( Le Pré Catelan is what I think she means) for tea. Sat long and watched the people, especially interested in man, hair tinged gray. His wife and little child. Wondered what their life had been during the war also before and after. Walked to end of Bois. Taxi home. Elizabeth dined here with me and we three went to the Opera House and heard Faust J. C’s (I don’t know if she referring to Jeannie and Clara or perhaps “Jane Cros” who played Marguerite in Faust) first time. Beautiful. Called in next to last act. I had never before seen. Good performance.”

“Monday June 6th, Cloudy, warm. Wrote. French lesson 11-30. Jeannie and I lunched hotel. P.M. Bank, drew money. Boucheron to look for J’s watch. Looked for feathered combs, Trois Quarter where I found my lost “Caumartin” and J. bought dressing gown. Book finder on Rue Richelieu left 2 works of poems to be bound @ 7 frs. a piece. Had tea at _____(she leaves it blank). Tea room, horrid sour milk! Book finder across river near Pantheon left 2 books to be bound. Poked about the book stalls in the Quai. J. bought book on travel in U.S.A. telling account of a parade in Boston and a bible. Dined at the Chinese Umbrella 8 Rue Mont Thabor. Went to a piano recital by Moiseiwitsch at Salle Gaveau. Delightful. Wire in piano when he first began to play. Shifted piano 3 times.”

“Tuesday June 7th, Fair. Warm. Wrote. French 11-30. Arthur, Ethel and Jeannie having been to see Jeannie’s portrait at the Le Verrier apartment. Called for me at Mlle Auil’s. Elizabeth there too. Lunched at restaurant in Champs Elysee with the Dupee’s. Arthur and I taxied in the Bois while E. and J. shopped. I alone to Boeklage to ask piece of suit. Jeannie with Arthur and bought watch at Boucheron’s. All had tea at Rumplemeyers. J. and I with shops Rue de Rivoli. I bought black chain for longuette (mid skirt) 54 frs. Dined hotel and went to Salle Gaveau to hear Yvette Guilbert. Charming in her Medieval songs and scenes unattractive, the modern ones. Home via electric car to Madeleine.”

“Wednesday June 8th, Fair. Warm. Gallerie Lafayette for underclothes. French lesson 11-30. Lunched hotel with Ethel and Jeannie. I gave tea at 4-30 at Eloise Derby’s restaurant. She ordered it for me @ 6 frcs. per person with 5 frcs. ____. Eloise, Ethel, Jeannie, Clara, Louisa Bazeley. Elizabeth and Mary Atkinson there. Delicious food delightful and restful rooms. Dined Prunier rue Cambon and J. and I walked to the Pont des Invalides and watched the Seine and Paris!”

“Thursday June 9th, To Comedie Francaise store to by tickets. Closed. To Rodin Museum, closed. To Bon Marche’ tried to see Mrs. Jan for Mr. Lanier but he could not be found. Bus to Gare St. Lazare (Gare Saint-Lazare). French lesson 12-30. Lunched at Duval, good 6 frc. Bus to Comedie, no tickets. Louvre and bought bathing suit. Fragonard exhibition in Musée des Arts décoratifs Rue de Rivoli. Delightful. Hotel to meet Ethel, Arthur and Jeannie and all went to tea at the Le Verrier to meet Mr. and Mrs. Anderson. He an author from Ohio? with flowing necktie and artistic hair. Clara, Mme Verrier, Captain Lombard and a Dutch Mlle _______ (she leaves it blank) there. The latter’s, father’s Dutch, Mother Spaniard. Delightful person. Jeannie poured tea. J. and I dined at restaurant at the Rond-Point Champs Elysee (outside) and went to the Femina Theater to the Chauve Souris, a different programme than before, better. Sat next to father and daughter, Russian refugees. Delightful. Spoke English, she trying to get work to support two sons, 14 & 12. Her husband died in Russia of typhus.”

The Russian Play she saw at the Femina Theater

“Friday June 10th, Cloudy, fair, cool. Wrote. Boeklage and ordered suit for 100, black cloth and chamease (chemise?) dress and cape-like coat with embroidery. Bank drew, $200. Lunched in a bakery, had omelet. French lesson 1. Met J. at hotel and went to Fragonard Exhibition. Hotel l’univers et Portugal to see when Emily and Miss Tapley (?) will arrive. Tomorrow at six. Tea at Chibrest (?), good. To Rodin Museum, was delightful, garden and trees. Most interesting! Dinned at restaurant Henrietta with Clara, Elizabeth, Jr. J., Mons (Monsieur) Le Verrier, and Captain Lombard, great fun. “Jean Paul”, “Pollywog” deaf aviators, Mary Atkinson and her beau Allan Whitman joined us and all went to Montmartre. Clara in little white auto with Jean Paul to the Cafe Lapin Agile. Took metro. Got out at station Lamarck, short walk from there. Picturesque beyond words inside and outside, room etc. Crowds inside sat on little benches. Some singing and a poet Edme Goyard recited some of his poems. Elizabeth had learned them. Delightful. Bought his book of poems, Le Miroir de Venise and he autographed them. Mary Atkinson, la deimoselle an chaperon blanc home in deaf aviator’s car leaving Elizabeth to go home with Mr. Whitman, the Captain saw me home. Wonderfully successful and interesting evening.”

(Sally here: I must say that so jar June 10th is one of my favorite entries of her time in Paris. The Lapin Agile was incredibly popular in the early 1900’s and 1920’s and attracted a very artsy crowd. The following website gives a fabulous history)

https://montmartrefootsteps.com/lapin-agile-cabaret-montmartre-2/

“Saturday June 11th, Wrote. Boeklage. Bank. French lesson 12-30. Jeannie recited for me. J. and I lunched. Gallerie La Fayette. Bought tea basket unfitted 5 frc. and parasol 41 frs. Louvre Gallery. Italian Masters. Tea at Chibrest. Called on Emily Walliston just arrived from _______(Almost looks like India but not quite) with Miss Tapley at Hotel L’univers and Portugal, depressing. Louisa dines here. J. L. and I to Trocadero to see Pavlova (who was a famous Russian prima ballerina) dance. Seats poor. Changed.”

Trocadero Palace and Pavlova the Famous Ballerina and Program for her 1921 Performance

“Sunday June 12th, Fair. Perfect. Wrote. Jeannie left Paris lunching 1^st with Clara and the Captain in the salon. Emily came and we sat in the room. Lunched Henriette’s. Montmartre by Nord-Sud to Lamarck. Revisited from outside the cafe Agile Lapin. Witnessed a bit of color and an embrace. Walked up to Sacre Coeur. The city, the color of the sea! Nord Sud to La Concorde. Taxi to Pres Catelan (crowds) for tea. Sat on grass in Bois beside little stream under Catalpas tree. Walked almost to Arc de Triomphe. Arrived Hotel 8-30. E. Saltonstall came for eve (evening) to talk over summer plans.”

To Be Continued in Part II

To Hear The Episode this Goes With:

https://www.sallysdiaries.com/podcast/episode/7cee1e1c/66-the-chateau-lafayette-and-the-women-it-captivated-1921